Removal techniques for efflorescence
Most efflorescence will naturally disappear over time, it can sometimes take years but eventually it will disappear on its own. However its removal can be accelerated by brushing with a stiff hard-wire dry brush. The use of a dust pan or vacuum cleaner to collect the salts after brushing is recommended to collect the efflorescence saltsas this will prevent salts from re-entering the brickwork or any porous paving materials below.
After brushing and cleaning up, an absorbent cloth (wrung out until damp only) can be used to pick up any residue. Frequent rinsing of the cloth in fresh
water is advisable. Rinsing brickwork with water will only cause the salt to be reabsorbed into the bricks and reappear when dry.
Protecting Against Efflorescence
It is possible to protect porous building materials such as brick, tiles, concrete and paving against efflorescence by treating the material with an impregnating, hydro-phobic sealer. This is a sealer which repels water and will penetrate deeply enough into the material to keep water and dissolved salts well away from the surface. However, in climates where freezing is a concern, such a sealer may lead to damage from freeze/thaw cycles.
Efflorescence can often be removed using phosphoric acid. After application the acid dilution is neutralized with mild diluted detergent, and then well rinsed with water. However, if the source of the water penetration is not addressed efflorescence may reappear.
Common rebar protective measures include the use of epoxy coating as well as the use of a slight electrical charge, both of which prevent rusting. One may also use stainless steel rebar.
Certain cement types are more resistant to chlorides than others. The choice of cement, therefore, can have a large effect upon the concrete’s reaction to chlorides.
Today’s water repellents help create a vapor permeable barrier; liquid water, especially from wind driven rains, will stay out of the brick and masonry. Water vapor from the interior of the building, or from the underside of pavers can escape. This will reduce efflorescence, spalling and scaling that can occur from water being trapped inside the brick substrate and freezing during cold weather. Years ago, the water repellents trapped moisture in the masonry wall creating more problems than they solved. Condensation in areas that experienced the four seasons were much more problematic than their counterparts.
Efflorescence
Efflorescence is not a stain. Efflorescence is a powdery and sometimes ‘fluffy’ deposit that forms on the surfaces of porous building materials such as bricks, masonry units, mortar and concrete. The temporary appearance of efflorescence is common on new masonry especially brickwork.
In chemistry, efflorescence (which means “to flower out” in French) is the loss of water (or a solvent) of crystallization from a hydrated or solvated salt to the atmosphere on exposure to air.
Efflorescences can occur in natural and built environments. On porous construction materials it may present a cosmetic problem only, but can sometimes indicate serious structural weakness.
The formation of efflorescence requires 3 conditions:
• Presence of soluble salts.
• Excessive amounts of water entering the masonry (that is why it is very common after pressure cleaning new bricks).
• The evaporation of water as the masonry dries out, depositing salts on the surface.
Salts that appear as efflorescence can enter the wall from various sources:
• Mortar components, particularly cement.
• Soil or fill in contact with the wall.
• Sea spray in coastal areas.
• Masonry units, however this is not a common source.
Any situation that allows excessive amounts of water to enter the wall is likely to promote efflorescence.
The most common causes are:
• Poor coping and flashing.
• The failure to protect new brickwork when rain interrupts bricklaying.
• Poor storage of masonry units on site. Before units are placed in the wall they can absorb ground salts and excessive water in the stockpiled masonry and can mobilize latent salts if they are present in the masonry.
• Persistent efflorescence may be a warning that water is entering the wall through faulty copings, flashings or pipes.
• Efflorescence as seen on brick faces
• Efflorescence from ground salts
Primary efflorescence
Primary efflorescence is named such, as it typically occurs during the initial cure of a cementitious product. It often occurs on masonry construction, particularly brick, as well as some fire stop mortars, when water moving through a wall or other structure, or water being driven out as a result of the heat of hydration as cement stone is being formed, brings salts to the surface that are not commonly bound as part of the cement stone. As the water evaporates, it leaves the salt behind, which forms a white, fluffy deposit, that can normally be brushed off. The resulting white deposits are referred to as “efflorescence” in this instance. In this context efflorescence is sometimes referred to as “saltpetering.” Since primary efflorescence brings out salts that are not ordinarily part of the cement stone, it is not a structural, but, rather, an aesthetic concern.
For controlling primary efflorescence, formulations containing liquid fatty acid mixtures (e.g., oleic acid and linoleic acid) have been commonly used. The oily liquid admixture is introduced into the batch mix at an early stage by coating onto the sand particles prior to the introduction of any mix water, so that the oily admixture is distributed uniformly throughout the concrete batch mix.
Secondary efflorescence
Secondary efflorescence is named such as it does not occur as a result of the forming of the cement stone or its accompanying hydration products. Rather, it is usually due to the external influence of concrete poisons, such as chlorides. A very common example of where secondary efflorescence occurs is steel-reinforced concrete bridges as well as parking garages. Saline solutions are formed due to the presence of road salt in the winter. This saline solution is absorbed into the concrete, where it can begin to dissolve cement stone, which is of primary structural importance. Virtual stalactites can be formed in some cases as a result of dissolved cement stone, hanging off cracks in concrete structures. Where this process has taken hold, the structural integrity of a concrete element is at risk. This is a common traffic infrastructure and building maintenance concern. Secondary efflorescence is akin to osteoporosis of the concrete.
For controlling secondary efflorescence, admixtures containing aqueous-based calcium stearate dispersion (CSD) are often added at a later stage of the batching process with the mix water. In a typical batching process, sand is first charged into the mixer, then the oil-based primary anti-efflorescence admixture is added with constant mixing to allow the oil to coat the sand. Then coarse aggregates, colorants, and cement are added, followed by water. If CSD is used, it is then introduced usually at this point during or after the addition of the mix water. CSD is an aqueous dispersion wherein fine solid particles of calcium stearate are suspended in the water uniformly. Commercially available CSD has an average particle size of about 1 to 10 micrometres. The uniform distribution of CSD in the mix may render the resulting CMU water repellent, as CSD particles are well distributed in the pores of the unit to interfere with the capillary movement of water.
Removing Vanadium Stains
Vanadium stains should be removed prior to cleaning with hydrochloric acid. Vanadium stains are yellow, green or reddish brown discoloration commonly present
on newly laid bricks.
Steps for removal:
- Take sodium hypochlorite, the active ingredient in household bleach and pool chlorine. This is a a good treatment for mild stains.
- Sodium hydroxide, more commonly known as caustic soda is also a good treatment. Take 21 ounces per gallon of water.
- Spray or brush solution onto a dry wall. When stains disappear rinse the wall thoroughly.
- Oxalic acid is the most common removal method. Mix 2.8 to 5.6 ounces of oxalic acid per gallon of water. Apply mixture to dry wall. When stains disappear, neutralize the acid on the wall with 2 ounces of washing soda per gallon of water. Do not rinse off.
Removing Mortar Residue From New Bricks
- Mortar joints should be allowed to harden for at least 3 days
- Remove all large mortar dags with hand scraper
- Cover adjacent materials such as glass, metal and wood
- Saturate the brick wall with clean water
- Apply hydrochloric acid solution max 1:20 for light colored bricks and max 1:10 for dark colored bricks using low pressure
- Allow for sufficient dwell time
- Pressure rinse off acid solution with low pressure power water spray
- Repeats steps as necessary
- DO NOT use more than 1200 PSI for smooth bricks or more than 1800 PSI for textured bricks
- Use a 15 degree fan jet with nozzle no closer than 10 inches from brick surface