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Choosing The Right Pressure Washer To Buy

June 13, 2012 by Cullen Adams

electric powered power cleaner

Electric Powered Pressure Washer

If you are in the market to buy a new pressure washer and need some advice on how to select which pressure washer will be the right one, then the first question you will need to ask yourself is “What is the pressure washer going to be used for?”

There are many different types of pressure washers. The first main difference between pressure washers is what they are powered by e.g electric or gas. An electric pressure washer is generally a low powered unit best suited for small domestic style jobs, such as pressure washing outdoor furniture, light house washing jobs and perhaps your car or other motor vehicle or boat. T

hey are not suitably for large concrete areas such as driveways or other large areas.

If you are a home owner or business owner who wants to keep your property maintained and want to do it yourself then you will want something with a little more oomph.

You will want a decent gas powered pressure washer which has enough PSI (pounds per square inch) and GPM (gallons per minute) to handle all of the required tasks of keeping a property maintained.

gas powered pressure cleaner

Gas Powered Pressure Washer

High PSI units are often all that consumers look for. Higher PSI will help you to dislodge dirt or grime making cleaning more effective however that is only half the story.

GPM is also important because the more water being dispersed the more efficient the cleaning operation will be.

 

 

Filed Under: Pressure Washers

Chemical Removal of Graffiti

May 17, 2012 by Cullen Adams

chemical removal of graffiti The chemical removal method of graffiti removal is perhaps the most common form of graffiti removal. Before you commence this method of graffiti removal, it is important to have an understanding of 2 important factors.

Firstly you will need to identify the type of graffiti. For example what is the graffiti made of, spray paint, marker, crayon, pencil etc. Certain paint or graffiti stripping chemicals will work better on the different graffiti material types. Next you need to identify the substrate that the graffiti is present on.

Bricks, blocks, natural stone and other masonry can tolerate just about any type of graffiti removal product. Masonry is also highly porous and therefore a shadow remover is often required in conjunction with the graffiti remover chemical to remove all traces of the graffiti, including the traces of paint or graffiti deep within the pores of the substrate.

Painted surfaces, metal, glass, plastic and other non-porous building materials or substrates can be less tolerate and can be much more easily damaged with the wrong graffiti removal chemical. This is when you will need to research and ensure that the chemical that you choose to undertake the removal task is compatible with the substrate you are removing the graffiti from. Using the wrong chemical on these surfaces can cause damage which can be permanent.

Chemical graffiti removers can vary substantially in strength. The stronger the remover, the faster it will break down the bond of the graffiti and the substrate. Mineral turpentine or mentholated spirits  can be effective to remove some graffiti from some non-porous substrates such as metal or glass. If these mild solvents do not work, then they are a number of proprietor graffiti removal solvents on the market that will be suitable to complete the task.

When handling graffiti removal chemicals and products, safety is an important factor to consider at all times. Make sure to wear gloves and it is also recommended that you wear a respirator especially when working in a confined space or a poorly ventilated area. Always opt for an environmentally friendly stripping agent to minimize the detrimental impact on our environment.

For more information on the impact that some of the leading graffiti removal products and information on their ingredients and effectiveness click here

Filed Under: Graffiti Removal

Methods of Graffiti Removal

May 16, 2012 by Cullen Adams

There are several different methods to removing graffiti and each one has its advantages and disadvantages. Some instances of graffiti can have more than one method of removal which will be suitable, however some methods will not be suitable in every scenario or instance of graffiti.

Graffiti removal is a highly skilled procedure which requires expert knowledge in each instance of graffiti. It requires knowledge of the material the graffiti has been created from and also the substrate the graffiti is present on. Improper techniques implemented in regards to removal of graffiti can cause permanent damage to property.

The methods of graffiti removal include:

Chemical Removal

Paint Over

Pressure Washing

 

Filed Under: Graffiti Removal

Graffiti Removal

May 16, 2012 by Cullen Adams

Graffiti removal is a major community problem and costs business and property owners along with taxpayers several million dollars each and every year. More often than not, graffiti is carried out on public property so it indirectly affects everybody.

Research has shown that the faster graffiti is removed the less likely that property or building structure will be targeted again. Graffiti artists are looking for fame within their peer group, they want as many people as possible to see their tag therefore will be reluctant to bomb a property or structure if they know it will be clean up in a short period of time. That is why rapid removal of graffiti is important if you are hoping to minimize it’s impact.

There are many different methods of graffiti removal and each instance of graffiti will involve a different method of removal which will be the most suitable.

Filed Under: Graffiti Removal

What is Graffiti

May 16, 2012 by Cullen Adams

Graffiti is a world wide problem that has been going on for centuries. The earliest recordings of graffiti date back to several thousand years BC. Carvings into rock and ancient drawings have been discovered in just about every ancient civilization known to man. These are merely examples of the earliest forms of graffiti. In more recent years, graffiti has been more commonly associated with the hip hop community and is one of the key elements of hip hop culture.

It is a form of self expression, popular among teenage boys and young adults. Some say it is art and I would agree with them. However when it is used to damage and violate other people’s property than it is a real problem. Graffiti can comes in many different forms. It can be via scratchings into a suitable surface, with the use of markers or the most common form which is with aerosol spray paint cans. It can be used to spread messages, political or other. It can be used to beautify a street scape or can be used to create the opposite effect in which it is more commonly associated.

An example of graffiti art

 

 

 

Filed Under: Graffiti Removal

Concrete Sealers

May 15, 2012 by Cullen Adams

Concrete sealers are applied to concrete to protect it from corrosion. They either block the pores in the concrete to reduce absorption of water and salts or form an impermeable layer which prevents such materials from passing.

Extensive research from concrete authorities in North America – American Concrete Institute, Portland Cement Association, National Ready Mix Concrete Association – confirm that almost all damage to concrete is attributable to moisture intrusion: alkali-silica reaction (ASR), chemical intrusion, freeze/thaw, and corrosion of reinforcements.

There are two main sealer categories: topical sealers (film-forming) and penetrating sealers (reactive).

Penetrating sealers should be properly matched with substrate porosity in order to penetrate the surface, clot, and form a barrier. Penetrating sealers generally do not significantly modify substrate appearance. They are chemically reactive and bond with minerals in cement reducing the amount of free silica available for ASR and reduce moisture required to induce ASR. As well as blocking surface moisture they block subterranean moisture and can reduce efflorescence. Lastly, penetrating sealers can harden and increase the density of concrete, increasing its strength as measured in pounds per square inch (PSI). The Lifespan of these sealers can be nearly permanent.

Today, five major compounds are commonly used in concrete sealers:

Acrylic resins form a topical thin film membrane. Acrylics are affordable and generally simple to apply. They are well known to increase perceived visual enhancement and generally provide good UV protection for colored substrates. They can make substrates slick when wet, sometimes requiring the addition of anti-skid materials. Despite being the softest and least lasting of the major sealer categories, price and convenience make acrylics a very popular choice for residential applications such as stamped concrete and exposed aggregate.

Epoxy. Because epoxy coatings are so strong and durable they trap moisture under the service which will cause the epoxy to bubble and crack. The water it is trapping on the other side wants to come in, and eventually it will! Epoxy sealers are also not permeable to water vapor.

Silicates. Silicates are deep penetrating sealers capillary that stop the wicking process in concrete. The silicate reacts with the free lime in concrete and forms and expanded crystalline structure beneath the surface. These crystals fill the pores of the concrete and prevents the penetration of radon and moisture infiltration by capillary action. The barrier stops water and radon.

Silane/Siloxane. Silane/siloxane sealers are clear water-based, low VOC, ready-to-use, breathable penetrating siloxane/silane water repellent for dense concrete and masonry surfaces – brick, cast concrete and stucco. Silane/siloxane sealers disintegrate quickly from traffic and UV-rays, darken the sealed service and can turn yellow, aren’t paintable and can be very slippery when wet.

Polyester Sealers. Polyester sealers are low viscosity, rapid curing, penetrating sealers that anchor lacquers, urethanes, polyesters, vinyl esters and most epoxies to a variety of substrates. Polyester sealers are strong and effective against water but they do not completely stop the intrusion of vapors and gases.

Several of the above listed sealers can be used in combination. Silanes, silicates and siliconates, which must be applied directly to the substrate, can be very receptive to topical coatings and can be used first in a multi-component system, followed by acrylics or epoxy/urethane systems. Silicates can also be applied as a second step with siliconates as the smaller molecules can provide additional pore closure. Siloxanes and silicones are too topical in nature to be reliably used in conjunction with topical coatings.

Filed Under: Concrete Sealers, Sealing & Protective Coatings

Removal of Efflorescence

May 15, 2012 by Cullen Adams

Removal techniques for efflorescence
Most efflorescence will naturally disappear over time, it can sometimes take years but eventually it will disappear on its own. However its removal can be accelerated by brushing with a stiff hard-wire dry brush. The use of a dust pan or vacuum cleaner to collect the salts after brushing is recommended to collect the efflorescence saltsas this will prevent salts from re-entering the brickwork or any porous paving materials below.
After brushing and cleaning up, an absorbent cloth (wrung out until damp only) can be used to pick up any residue. Frequent rinsing of the cloth in fresh
water is advisable. Rinsing brickwork with water will only cause the salt to be reabsorbed into the bricks and reappear when dry.

Filed Under: Brick Cleaning, New Construction

Protecting Against Efflorescence

May 15, 2012 by Cullen Adams

It is possible to protect porous building materials such as brick, tiles, concrete and paving against efflorescence by treating the material with an impregnating, hydro-phobic sealer. This is a sealer which repels water and will penetrate deeply enough into the material to keep water and dissolved salts well away from the surface. However, in climates where freezing is a concern, such a sealer may lead to damage from freeze/thaw cycles.

Efflorescence can often be removed using phosphoric acid. After application the acid dilution is neutralized with mild diluted detergent, and then well rinsed with water. However, if the source of the water penetration is not addressed efflorescence may reappear.

Common rebar protective measures include the use of epoxy coating as well as the use of a slight electrical charge, both of which prevent rusting. One may also use stainless steel rebar.

Certain cement types are more resistant to chlorides than others. The choice of cement, therefore, can have a large effect upon the concrete’s reaction to chlorides.

Today’s water repellents help create a vapor permeable barrier; liquid water, especially from wind driven rains, will stay out of the brick and masonry. Water vapor from the interior of the building, or from the underside of pavers can escape. This will reduce efflorescence, spalling and scaling that can occur from water being trapped inside the brick substrate and freezing during cold weather. Years ago, the water repellents trapped moisture in the masonry wall creating more problems than they solved. Condensation in areas that experienced the four seasons were much more problematic than their counterparts.

Filed Under: Brick Cleaning, New Construction

Efflorescence

May 15, 2012 by Cullen Adams

Efflorescence is not a stain. Efflorescence is a powdery and sometimes ‘fluffy’ deposit that forms on the surfaces of porous building materials such as bricks, masonry units, mortar and concrete. The temporary appearance of efflorescence is common on new masonry especially brickwork.

In chemistry, efflorescence (which means “to flower out” in French) is the loss of water (or a solvent) of crystallization from a hydrated or solvated salt to the atmosphere on exposure to air.

Efflorescences can occur in natural and built environments. On porous construction materials it may present a cosmetic problem only, but can sometimes indicate serious structural weakness.

The formation of efflorescence requires 3 conditions:

• Presence of soluble salts.
• Excessive amounts of water entering the masonry (that is why it is very common after pressure cleaning new bricks).
• The evaporation of water as the masonry dries out, depositing salts on the surface.

Salts that appear as efflorescence can enter the wall from various sources:

• Mortar components, particularly cement.
• Soil or fill in contact with the wall.
• Sea spray in coastal areas.
• Masonry units, however this is not a common source.
Any situation that allows excessive amounts of water to enter the wall is likely to promote efflorescence.

The most common causes are:

• Poor coping and flashing.
• The failure to protect new brickwork when rain interrupts bricklaying.
• Poor storage of masonry units on site. Before units are placed in the wall they can absorb ground salts and excessive water in the stockpiled masonry and can mobilize latent salts if they are present in the masonry.
• Persistent efflorescence may be a warning that water is entering the wall through faulty copings, flashings or pipes.
• Efflorescence as seen on brick faces
• Efflorescence from ground salts

Primary efflorescence

Primary efflorescence is named such, as it typically occurs during the initial cure of a cementitious product. It often occurs on masonry construction, particularly brick, as well as some fire stop mortars, when water moving through a wall or other structure, or water being driven out as a result of the heat of hydration as cement stone is being formed, brings salts to the surface that are not commonly bound as part of the cement stone. As the water evaporates, it leaves the salt behind, which forms a white, fluffy deposit, that can normally be brushed off. The resulting white deposits are referred to as “efflorescence” in this instance. In this context efflorescence is sometimes referred to as “saltpetering.” Since primary efflorescence brings out salts that are not ordinarily part of the cement stone, it is not a structural, but, rather, an aesthetic concern.

For controlling primary efflorescence, formulations containing liquid fatty acid mixtures (e.g., oleic acid and linoleic acid) have been commonly used. The oily liquid admixture is introduced into the batch mix at an early stage by coating onto the sand particles prior to the introduction of any mix water, so that the oily admixture is distributed uniformly throughout the concrete batch mix.

Secondary efflorescence

Secondary efflorescence is named such as it does not occur as a result of the forming of the cement stone or its accompanying hydration products. Rather, it is usually due to the external influence of concrete poisons, such as chlorides. A very common example of where secondary efflorescence occurs is steel-reinforced concrete bridges as well as parking garages. Saline solutions are formed due to the presence of road salt in the winter. This saline solution is absorbed into the concrete, where it can begin to dissolve cement stone, which is of primary structural importance. Virtual stalactites can be formed in some cases as a result of dissolved cement stone, hanging off cracks in concrete structures. Where this process has taken hold, the structural integrity of a concrete element is at risk. This is a common traffic infrastructure and building maintenance concern. Secondary efflorescence is akin to osteoporosis of the concrete.

For controlling secondary efflorescence, admixtures containing aqueous-based calcium stearate dispersion (CSD) are often added at a later stage of the batching process with the mix water. In a typical batching process, sand is first charged into the mixer, then the oil-based primary anti-efflorescence admixture is added with constant mixing to allow the oil to coat the sand. Then coarse aggregates, colorants, and cement are added, followed by water. If CSD is used, it is then introduced usually at this point during or after the addition of the mix water. CSD is an aqueous dispersion wherein fine solid particles of calcium stearate are suspended in the water uniformly. Commercially available CSD has an average particle size of about 1 to 10 micrometres. The uniform distribution of CSD in the mix may render the resulting CMU water repellent, as CSD particles are well distributed in the pores of the unit to interfere with the capillary movement of water.

Filed Under: Brick Cleaning, New Construction

How To Remove Algae From Roof Shingles

May 15, 2012 by Cullen Adams

Cleaning roof shingles is an affordable way to restore your home’s curb appeal, prolong the lifespan of your roof and can be a good idea to improve  the health of your home and family. Cleaning your roof can prevent the need for costly replacement in the years to come because algae, mildew and moss will ultimately damage shingles.

It is not advised to use high powered pressure water to clean shingle roofs because this can dislodge the granules in the shingles and that can lead to high heating and cooling costs and lead to premature failure of your roof.

To clean your asphalt shingle roof you will need a special shingle roof cleaning mixture, a low pressure washer, a pump sprayer or, a ladder to access your roof, personal protective equipment such as rubber-soled shoes, safety glasses and a harness.

The Special Roof Cleaning  mixture is:
4 gallons of water, 1 gallon of bleach and 1 cup of TSP (Tri-Sodium Phosphate-or acceptable phosphate-free
substitute).

Apply this mixture with a garden pump sprayer, let sit on the roof surface
for up to 20 minutes, and rinse with low-pressure water.

Be sure to protect any shrubs below. Remember, the
roof surface will become slippery when wet… be very careful!!!

Filed Under: Asphalt Shingles, Roof Cleaning

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